But after a while, it starts to be very hard to adjust it using slow motion wheels.
I balanced it horizontally, vertically, I thought the weight was not correctly centered.
But, everything was fine, and it was still very hard to turn it using the wheel that should be help to follow a moving star or planet easily
Then, I found the magic solution! What you need to add in your amateur astronomer kit is a ratchet with a 11/16 inch box.
And, when it starts to be very hard to adjust your telescope using slow motion wheel, just use your ratchet in the hole behind the larger wheel, turn it a little bit, and wow, you can now use that tripod again!
I have to do that very time I use it, as it seems to loose itself very often.
tl;dr: Use SteamLink on a Raspberry Pi. It just don’t work on an Apple TV (4th gen).
I have a PS4 and I prefer play in the living room on the couch with a remote. I recently decided to finally use Steam a little more, because they have good deals on their store that are sometimes very cheaper than those on the Playstation Store. But I prefer play on the couch in front of the TV instead of near the Desktop PC, where I usually work, not play.
To do that, I can use the Steam Link service, to stream my desktop PC to the living room TV.
SteamLink app is available for both Apple TV and Raspberry Pi, and I have both.
Because I already set my Raspberry to play games, with RetroPie, I tried it first. I bought a Logitech F310 controller and plug it to the PI.
The app is easy to install on Raspbian, just search it in the “add or remove programs” section.
To play, you need to start the Steam app on your PC first. Then start the app on the Pi. I would like to be able to start the app using the controller, but I can’t.
So I need to use my Logitech K400+ wireless keyboard+touchpad to start the app.
Everything works fine, I can play for hours at Assassins Creed Unity.
The Nimbus is easy to sync from the bluetooth config, and automatically sync very quickly after when turning it on. Also, it’s easier to start the steam link app from the Apple TV menu, because I can do all from the Nimbus controller without using the Apple TV remote.
While connecting to my PC, the steamlink app show a warning about 4 buttons that are not available on the Nimbus: Select, Start, L3, R3. The default config for them is Menu+A,B,X,Y. I accept the default settings.
Then, I start to play. The same game, with all settings set to default, as I did with the Raspberry Pi.
Suddenly, the game starts to freeze. It locks for 0.5-1 second, every 10 seconds. And the sound start to cut. The resolution automatically lower, and it’s still the same.
I started the real-time monitoring of informations, and the fps were moving between 30 and 60, and suddenly switch to 1-2 when I get the freeze. And the status bar on the right show a huge peak.
I restarted all devices, and I went to the settings options, telling the steam link app to use “fastest” config, and I set the maximum resolution to 720p. Still same result, it’s unplayable.
My conclusion is simple: the Apple TV 4th gen CAN’T be used with Steam Link. I don’t know about the 5th gen “4k” Apple TV.
The SteelSeries Nimbus is a good device, looks solid, and works very well with all native ios games. The issue is only when using the Steam Link app, nothing else. And it’s not related to the controller.
Because I bought the SteelSeries Nimbus ONLY to play Steam Link, and I can’t, I returned the controller to Amazon. But, again, it’s a good controller for all native TVOS games.
My suggestion is to buy a cheap Raspberry Pi 3 (or the new 4), and use any compatible controller you want, but I strongly suggest the Logitech F310, or a genuine Xbox controller (wired).
I have a 2012 Toyota Yaris, that can play mp3 / aac audio files from an USB key.
So, I bought a 128G usb key, load it with my audio files on it, and it works fine for months.
Then, I decided to update the usb key with new songs. Before copying my files to it, I format it using Windows format utility. Then, I copy all my new mp3 files on it.
And now, what? I can’t read them! My car player always displays the “USB READ ERROR” message. I thought I put too much files on the USB key, so I tried with only 1 album, with the same result.
After lot of research, I found that, using the windows format tool, I changed the original “FAT32” partition, to a exFAT partition type. And, most car player can’t read that partition type.
So, I tried to format it using the command prompt: “format f: /fs:FAT32”. It took almost 1 hour, before completing with the error: “The volume is too big for FAT32”. I tried the “/q” method before, with the same result. That’s why I retry without the /q, but don’t lost your time, it doesn’t work.
I searched again… then I found that, only third party apps can format a large USB key with the real FAT32 format. There were lot of tools that can do that, but I choosed the one that looks the more simple, as I don’t always trust apps from unknown sources…
I just got 2 new Benq monitors. One 24 inch GW2470 set as landscape, and a GW2765 set as portrait mode. They are wonderful on my desktop! And that portrait mode will help me develop web apps with the “developer mode” visible in the bottom of the screen.
I really like the low blue light feature, specially in low light environment like a small room, when there’s no other lights over or behind me.
There a “quick action” button that allow to choose between 4 type of “low blue light” preset.
The level of blue light is not the same on both, so I set the first one at 30%, but I did not set it on the second one, as the white level is not as strong as it is on the first screen.
But now, how can I reset that blue light mode ?!?!? As you see in the previous picture, we can choose between 4 modes, but there’s 1 missing: “DISABLE”! Once you set it, it looks like you have to keep it forever! I searched the web and found some people having the same issue, and their solution was to “reset all settings” in the menu.
But, there’s a better method, for those who can read the manual!
Go in the menu, then select “Picture Advanced”, and “Picture Mode”. There, you will see that “blue light” is one settings between others. You can then move to “standard”, “movie”, … So, the 4 blue light settings are sub-items of the “blue light” picture mode!
I recently had to configure an automated backup procedure for MySQL databases, related to wordpress sites.
I am a long-time user of MS SQL Server, so I was surprised to find that there is no “binary” option of MySQL backup, only text script version.
Then, I quickly found that MySQLDump is what I need. So, I start using it as-is, without any doc reading.
mysqldump --all-databases > backup.sql
Finally, to make sure it works fine, I tried to restore it.
My first surprise was to find lot of invalid data in my backup! What?
Then, I learned that mysqldump, by default, is NOT set to backup everything the correct way.
Because I use some wordpress plugins that store their data into “blobs”, I need to add this very important option:
In fact, I don’t understand why it’s not included in the default --opt option, as it MUST be used to get blob correctly backed up.
Also, I read at some places that I should use the --opt settings, because it enables all of these: --add-drop-table --add-locks --create-options --disable-keys --extended-insert --lock-tables --quick --set-charset
But, you don’t need to, as –opt is a “default” option automatically applied when you run mysqldump.exe.
Now, is there others options I need to enable to make sure I backup everything? Yes, I found 3. And, mysqldump give us warning to enable them if we need to get a full backup! So, once again, why aren’t they enable it by default?
These options are: –routines, –events and –triggers.
In some versions of mysqldump, using “–all-databases” automatically enabled the --routines and --events, but not if you backup 1 single database. And, in the version 8+, these options are NOT set by default.
So, don’t take chances, add them.
One last thing: If you want to avoid problems with file encoding, I suggest to use --result-file=filename.sql, instead of > filename.sql, to prevent different encoding between systems.
The best way to use intellisense in your favorite editor, like Visual Studio Code or anything else, is to name these files with the .js extension.
But, there’s a security issue. If you name these files like that, they should be returned to your client in plain text if called from a web browser. You don’t want your server-side code to be exposed through IIS.
What you need to do, is just put all these files in a specific folder, in which you will disable all IIS handlers, by using the following steps.
In your application root, create a folder called private.
In that folder, create a web.config file, and add this content:
The worst part of Classic ASP in VBScript is Error Handling.
You need to type “on error resume next”, then, check, on every line, check if the previous one generates an error using [If Err.Number <> 0 then …]. That’s a real pain.
When you need solid error handling inside an ASP – VBScript sub or function, there’s a very simple method you can apply.
Yes you can! It’s called JScript, it’s ECMAScript 3 compatible, and it just works.
Also, it’s totally compatible with your existing VBScript application, that will be able to call that JS method without any issue. Even all your application VBScript variables will be shared between VB and JS.
100% VBScript file:
fct1 = true
on error resume next
' do something that can crash
dim i : i = 1
i = i / 0
if err.number <> 0 then
fct1 = false
response.write err.number & "<br>"
response.write err.description & "<br>"
on error goto 0
dim value : value = fct1()
response.write "result: " & value
// do something that can crash
var i = 1;
i = parseINT(i); // <- typo
dim value : value = fct1()
Just, watch out as JScript is case sensitive, VBScript is not.
vb: response.write "txt"
On May 15, 1997, Microsoft released the Service Pack 3 of Windows NT4, introducing Active Server Page technology (ASP).